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DIY Repair Instructions

I-SUP Boards

Board Repairs
Stage 1 Materials required:
  • 80grade abrasive paper (rough)
  • 180grade abrasive paper (smooth
  • Scotch-Brite pad
  • 2-part clear resin kit
  • Cleaned out yogurt pot
  • 1cm brush
  • Cling-film
  • 25mm Masking tape
  • 2-part white Gelcoat
  • White primer filler paint
  • Colour matched touch up paint
Stage 2 Preparation:
  • Flush out the damaged and surrounding area with fresh water and allow to dry completely. (sea water will not dry and will not allow the repair to key into the board)
  • Rub down the damaged area with 80grade paper
  • Blow out the debris
  • Cut sufficient glass matting to cover the damaged area and about 1cm overlap
Stage 3 The Resin repair:
  • Mix sufficient resin and hardener in the plastic container using the ratios given on the resin instructions.
  • Beware of Exothermic reaction, this can cause a melt down if you use too much resin in a confined space.
  • Brush on the mixed resin to the damaged area
  • Apply the glass matting and stipple with the brush until completely wetted out with the resin.
  • Cover with cling-film and stick down the parameter with masking tape and leave overnight.
Stage 4 The Gelcote repair:
  • Sand down the excess resin and glass matting.
  • Mix up sufficient Gelcoat to bring the repaired area to the board surface. Note; if the repair is deeper than 2-3mm, build up with several layers of Gelcoat, each layer should be no more than 2-3mm thick, allow each layer to harden before applying a subsequent layer.
  • Once the final Gelcoat layer has hardened sand down with appropriate abrasive paper to give a smooth finish, which blends in to the surrounding board. The finishing process may take some time to give a perfect finish.
Smaller repairs:
  • If the damage is only slight, you may be able to miss-out stage 3.

Instructions for applying Boom Grip:
First, remove the old damaged grip and clean the tube to get all the old material removed.


Next:  apply the adhesive to the tube, (we uses Evo Stik - Time Bond Contact Adhesive) to get to the whole tube surface in one go, use a wooden dowel to insert into the front end of the tube.

Next: Apply the same adhesive to the new boom grip.

Follow the adhesive instructions regarding timings for the application.

Next:  Please read the next section completely before starting to apply the grip.
Apply the new grip carefully along the whole length of the tube so that the long join will be on the outer length of the tube.
Make sure the tube only touches the centre line of the grip along its entre length. Once you are happy with the positioning of the grip/tube, start to wrap one side of the grip around the outside of the tube and make sure the long edge is flat and secure to the tube. then wrap the other side around the tube and overlap the first long edge along the complete length of the tube.

Your boom tube should now look like the image to the left. At this point it is a good idea to use a wallpaper roller to burnish down the overlapping edge to ensure the second grip edge is in full contact with the metal of the tube.


Next:  Now use some sanding paper on a block to gradually were down the overlapping edge to leave a seamless finish.

Instructions for our Monofilm Repair tapes:
Small tears in monofilm panels are the most common type of sail damage. You can make good temporary repairs on any monofilm panel if the tear is no longer than say 20 cm and is a minimum of 2 cm away from any seam. You must cut the Mylar Repair Tape with radius corners to over hang the damaged area by a minimum of 2 cm all around. Apply the Mylar Repair Tape to both sides of the dry sail. This type of repair can last a very long time.

Larger tears can be temporarily fixed in this manner. However this will be strictly temporary. Extended use of a sail with a large tear usual leads to much more severe damage! In either case you should seek our professional advice as soon as possible. Our advice costs nothing and could save your sail !

Instructions for our Heat-Set Repair tapes:
Clean the damaged area with fresh water and thoroughly dry. Cut the repair tape with radius corners to over hang the damaged area by a minimum of 2 cm all around. Remove the release film to expose the adhesive, apply the repair tape to both sides (if possible) of the dry sail, then use a domestic iron (temperature adjusted to Nylon) to set the adhesive. This type of repair can last a very long time. Larger tears can be temporarily fixed in this manner. However this will be strictly temporary. Extended use of a sail with a large tear usual leads to much more severe damage! In either case you should seek our professional advice as soon as possible. Our advice costs nothing and could save your sail !

Instructions for our Aqua-Stick:

  1. For best results. clean and roughen bond area prior to application.
  2. Cut off required amount of Aqua-Stick .
  3. To mix; knead with fingers to a uniform colour.
  4. Apply to surface to be repaired (within two minutes of mixing). The mixed epoxy does not exhibit a high bond strength at this point, but appears to be merely lying on the surface. Force into any cracks or holes to be filed and clean off excess material.
  5. When applying to a damp, wet or a slowly leaking area work the material forcefully into the surface and apply pressure until adhesion begins to take affect.
  6. For a smooth appearance of the cured compound. Hand rub with water or a damp cloth prior to hardening.
  7. Remove excess material before hardening begins.
  8. After 20-30 minutes the epoxy will harden and form a tenacious bond
  9. After just 60 minute, the item can be put back into service.


Touch-Up paint application

By following the simple instructions below you should be able to achieve a professional finish to your repair. Unfortunately each board will have fade characteristic unique to the UV exposure history of that particular board, the production run may also have a slightly differing colour value.

Paint products that you will probably need:
Primer Filler... This is the ideal primer for all repairs, with added adhesion properties for all composite substrates. Seals and primes the surface, makes the best surface to receive the final colour top coat. Primer Fillers can be thinned down with standard cellulose thinners. 

Original colours... You will need to contact the brand importers to acquire the correct colour matched paint. Most touch up paints can be thinned down with the correct thinners.

Thinners... Can be used to thin down our paints and also to clean off brushes and air brushes.
Stage 1
Preparation:
 A white base primer filler should be applied and rubbed down. The Primmer Filler should be thinned just enough to use with the airbrush (20% thinners 80% paint is a good starting point but trial and error / experience is the only way you will get this correct). Repeat stage 1 until an indiscernible fading out (visual and touch) to the original colour and finish is achieved. It is pointless progressing beyond stage 2 until you have achieved the indiscernible fading out (visual and touch) to the original colour and finish as the final coat can only be as good as the finish achieved with the initial primer coat.
Stage 2
First colour coat
 Apply the first colour coat only to the white primer area fading out to match the white primer fading out. (All paints should be thinned to approximately 10% thinners / 90% paint, trial and error / experience is the only way you will get this correct as all paints have varying viscosities in their supplied/raw state) Any over spray onto the original colour at this stage will give a darker appearance to that over sprayed area which will be a remaining visual feature. (highlighting your repair)
Stage 3
Second colour coat		 Repeat stage 2 with the paint thinned down to 20% thinners / 80% paint.
Stage 4
Rubbing down		 Once the second coat has cured (the time scale will depend on temperature and humidity) rub down with a scotch cloth, gentle small circular motions to give the final coat a good surface to lay on. Do not expose any of the white primer as the final coat will have a high degree of transparency.
Stage 5
Finishing coat		 Thin the paint to 50% and adjust the spray to minimum for this the final coat. The area to include the original board for about 20cm over spray. Do not apply too much paint or more than two spray passes.
Stage 6
Finishing touches		 Once this final coat is cured you can matt down the finish if required by buffing down to a matt finish with a scotch cloth, gentle small circular motions or buff up to a final gloss finish with a soft cloth.

Grip Additive application instructions Please read all the instructions before you attempt to apply the Aqua Grip:
Grip Additive

If you are applying grip additive, this must be applied without delay to the wet Aqua Grip.  As the Aqua Grip cures it will seal in the grip additive particles to give you a long lasting grip coating.

Stage 1  
Grip Additive Application Test 		If you are not using a  using 200bar ceramic wide nozzle powder spray for the additive application, you can use an empty jam jar with an old nylon stocking secured over the top. Do a teat sprinkle onto a sheet of coloured paper to make sure the nylon stocking is of the correct openness to give you the desired covering. Once you are satisfied with the result of your sprinkle, pour the Grip Additive back into the jam jar and re apply the nylon stocking over the opening.
Stage 2  
Grip Additive Application 		Now apply the Aqua Grip as detailed in the Aqua Grip instructions above and immediately apply the Grip Additive while the Aqua Grip is still wet.