Stage 1 Materials required:
- 80grade abrasive paper (rough)
- 180grade abrasive paper (smooth
- Scotch-Brite pad
- 2-part clear resin kit
- Cleaned out yogurt pot
- 1cm brush
- 25mm Masking tape
- 2-part white Gelcoat
- White primer filler paint
- Colour matched touch up paint
Stage 2 Preparation:
- Flush out the damaged and
surrounding area with fresh water and allow to dry
completely. (sea water will not dry and will not allow the
repair to key into the board)
- Rub down the damaged area with
- Blow out the debris
- Cut sufficient glass matting to
cover the damaged area and about 1cm overlap
Stage 3 The Resin repair:
- Mix sufficient resin and hardener
in the plastic container using the ratios given on the resin
- Beware of Exothermic reaction, this
can cause a melt down if you use too much resin in a
- Brush on the mixed resin to the
- Apply the glass matting and stipple
with the brush until completely wetted out with the resin.
- Cover with cling-film and stick
down the parameter with masking tape and leave overnight.
Stage 4 The Gelcote repair:
- Sand down the excess resin and
- Mix up sufficient Gelcoat to bring
the repaired area to the board surface. Note; if the repair
is deeper than 2-3mm, build up with several layers of
Gelcoat, each layer should be no more than 2-3mm thick,
allow each layer to harden before applying a subsequent
- Once the final Gelcoat layer has
hardened sand down with appropriate abrasive paper to give a
smooth finish, which blends in to the surrounding board. The
finishing process may take some time to give a perfect
Stage 5 Finishing:
DIY Colour Matched Paints
- If the damage is only slight, you
may be able to miss-out stage 3.
Instructions for our
Monofilm Repair tapes:
Small tears in monofilm panels are the most common type of sail
damage. You can make good temporary repairs on any monofilm
panel if the tear is no longer than say 20 cm and is a minimum
of 2 cm away from any seam. You must cut the Mylar Repair Tape
with radius corners to over hang the damaged area by a minimum
of 2 cm all around. Apply the Mylar Repair Tape to both sides of
the dry sail. This type of repair can last a very long time.
Larger tears can be temporarily fixed in this manner. However
this will be strictly temporary. Extended use of a sail with a
large tear usual leads to much more severe damage! In either
case you should seek our professional advice as soon as
possible. Our advice costs nothing and could save your sail !
Instructions for our
Heat-Set Repair tapes:
Clean the damaged area with fresh water and thoroughly dry. Cut
the repair tape with radius corners to over hang the damaged
area by a minimum of 2 cm all around. Remove the release film to
expose the adhesive, apply the repair tape to both sides (if
possible) of the dry sail, then use a domestic iron (temperature
adjusted to Nylon) to set the adhesive. This type of repair can
last a very long time. Larger tears can be temporarily fixed in
this manner. However this will be strictly temporary. Extended
use of a sail with a large tear usual leads to much more severe
damage! In either case you should seek our professional advice
as soon as possible. Our advice costs nothing and could save
your sail !
Instructions for our Aqua-Stick:
- For best results. clean and roughen bond area prior to
- Cut off required amount of
- To mix; knead with fingers to
a uniform colour.
- Apply to surface to be
repaired (within two minutes of mixing). The mixed epoxy
does not exhibit a high bond strength at this point, but
appears to be merely lying on the surface. Force into any
cracks or holes to be filed and clean off excess material.
- When applying to a damp, wet
or a slowly leaking area work the material forcefully into
the surface and apply pressure until adhesion begins to take
- For a smooth appearance of
the cured compound. Hand rub with water or a damp cloth
prior to hardening.
- Remove excess material before
- After 20-30 minutes the epoxy
will harden and form a tenacious bond
- After just 60 minute, the
item can be put back into service.
Touch-Up paint application
Original colours... All of our paints are colour matched here in
our workshops and all contain additives including plasticizers
which give great adhesion and keying properties, impact
resistance and flexibility to your finished work. Our touch up
paints can be thinned down with standard cellulose thinners.
By following the simple instructions below you should be able to
achieve a professional finish to your repair. Unfortunately each
board will have fade characteristic unique to the UV exposure
history of that particular board, the production run may also
have a slightly differing colour value. For the perfect finish,
send us a paint chip (1sq cm) and we can mix it ! The touch up
paint we supply is based on the original colour for the board.
We recommend the following procedure for best results: Spraying
using an Airbrush (click here for our £20 airbrush complete
kit), several light passes rather than fewer heavy passes.
Paint products that you will
Blue Chip Primer Filler... This is the ideal
primer for all repairs, with added adhesion properties for all
composite substrates. Seals and primes the surface, makes the
best surface to receive the final colour top coat. Our Primer
Filler can be thinned down with standard cellulose thinners.
Blue Chip extra adhesion Primer Filler.
Original colours... All of our paints are
colour matched here in our workshops and all contain additives
including plasticizers which give great adhesion and keying
properties, impact resistance and flexibility to your finished
work. Our touch up paints can be thinned down with our standard
thinners. Blue Chip colour matched extra
adhesion Touch Up Paint
Standard thinners... Can be used to thin down
our paints and also to clean off brushes and air brushes.
supplied in 125ml tins
A white base primer filler should be applied and rubbed down.
The Primmer Filler should be thinned just enough to use with the
airbrush (20% thinners 80% paint
is a good starting point but trial and error / experience is the
only way you will get this correct). Repeat stage 1
until an indiscernible fading out (visual and touch) to the
original colour and finish is achieved. It is pointless
progressing beyond stage 2 until you have achieved the
indiscernible fading out (visual and touch) to the original
colour and finish as the final coat can only be as good as the
finish achieved with the initial primer coat.
First colour coat
Apply the first colour coat only to the white primer area fading
out to match the white primer fading out. (All
of the Blue Chip paints should be thinned to approximately 10%
thinners / 90% paint, trial and error / experience is the only
way you will get this correct as all paints have varying
viscosities in their supplied/raw state) Any over
spray onto the original colour at this stage will give a darker
appearance to that over sprayed area which will be a remaining
visual feature. (highlighting your repair)
Second colour coat
Repeat stage 2 with the paint thinned down to 20% thinners / 80%
Once the second coat has cured (the time scale will depend on
temperature and humidity) rub down with a scotch cloth, gentle
small circular motions to give the final coat a good surface to
lay on. Do not expose any of the white primer as the final coat
will have a high degree of transparency.
Thin the paint to 50% and adjust the spray to minimum for this
the final coat. The area to include the original board for about
20cm over spray. Do not apply too much paint or more than two
Once this final coat is cured you can matt down the finish if
required by buffing down to a matt finish with a scotch cloth,
gentle small circular motions or buff up to a final gloss finish
with a soft cloth.
Grip Additive application instructions
Please read all the instructions before you attempt to apply the Aqua Grip:
If you are applying grip additive, this must be applied
without delay to the wet Aqua Grip. As the Aqua Grip cures it
will seal in the grip additive particles to give you a long
lasting grip coating.
Grip Additive Application Test
If you are not using a using 200bar ceramic wide nozzle powder
spray for the additive application, you can use an empty jam jar
with an old nylon stocking secured over the top. Do a teat
sprinkle onto a sheet of coloured paper to make sure the nylon
stocking is of the correct openness to give you the desired
covering. Once you are satisfied with the result of your
sprinkle, pour the Grip Additive back into the jam jar and re
apply the nylon stocking over the opening.
Grip Additive Application
Now apply the Aqua Grip as detailed in the Aqua Grip
instructions above and immediately apply the Grip Additive while
the Aqua Grip is still wet.